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Long-term readers know that I am a long-term fan of this Volnay producer. It was the first time I was not greeted by the ursine figure of Jean-Pierre Charlot, instead by his nephew Etienne Chaix. Charlot is taking a back seat role but came in to see me halfway through the tasting. As usual, I was presented with detailed information on the exact number of barrels from their diaspora of tiny holdings across 8 hectares of vineyard vis-à-vis previous vintages. In 2019 the picking began on 13 September compared to 30 August in 2018, though in 2020 that record was broken since they began in on 22 August. An indicator of the depleted yields is that production in 2019 was 119 barrels compared to 182 in 2018 and 191 in 2017. The style of winemaking has not altered. This is the bastion of what you might call “traditional” Burgundy that is all the rage nowadays. These are terroir-driven, site-specific wines that arguably entertain a bit of rusticity, can seem a little coarse in their youth, but age with unerring panache. The Volnay Caillerets is amongst the best you will find in 2019, not powerful but beguilingly intense, a wine that evokes its place of origin. Prices remain relatively reasonable and both 2018s in bottle and the forthcoming 2019s are recommended.- Neal Martin, Vinous Media.
It was a great pleasure to revisit Domaine Joseph Voillot and taste with Jean-Pierre Charlot and his nephew Etienne Chaix. As Chaix takes the reins, ably counseled by Charlot, the approach to winemaking hasn’t changed: what Charlot calls the “bon sens paysan” prevails, with destemmed grapes, classical macerations and modest percentages of new oak—never more than 15%. In the vineyards, however, developments are afoot: pesticides and herbicides have been banished, a welcome evolution that’s facilitated by vintages with low humidity and disease pressure. As ever, these are very classically proportioned wines that really repay bottle age: I recently drank several of the domaine’s 1985s, for example, and found them exquisitely perfumed and texturally sumptuous. In short, this address comes recommended.- William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
I met this year with Jean-Pierre Charlot and his nephew Etienne Chaix, who has taken over the direction of the domaine from his uncle though Jean-Pierre remains involved. They described 2018 as having a “relatively easy growing season because after a wet spring, conditions were hot and dry without any particular disease pressure. We picked from the 30th of August to the 4th of September and brought in super-clean and ripe fruit that averaged between 13.5 and 14% of potential alcohol. Yields were about the same as what we realized in 2017, which is to say between 40 and 45 hl/ha. We did our normal vinification over an 18-day period during which we did a twice daily punch down regimen with no chaptalization or acidification. 2018 isn’t a classic vintage but it’s nice to occasionally have good quality and good quantity, which hasn’t been the case very often this decade in the Côte de Beaune.” Chaix noted that, with the exception of the Bourgogne, the wines were bottled in December 2020. I quite liked a number of the wines in the range and they’re slightly more interesting than the domaine’s 2017s though stylistically quite different.
Domaine Joseph Voillot is located in Volnay, a small wine village a few kilometres from Beaune.
For 6 generations, we have been cultivating 8 hectares of vines that extend across the municipalities of Meursault, Volnay, Pommard and Beaune.
The 13 appellations of the estate are all produced with equal care in the purest Burgundian tradition with respect for our terroirs.
Domaine Joseph Voillot is managed by Etienne Chaix, grandson of Joseph and nephew of Jean-Pierre Charlot who has taken a step back but remains on hand when needed.
Reasoned agriculture is part of every intervention in our vine parcels for the best possible results, and our intention is to always make the best decisions keeping the environment in mind. Our farm has been awarded the high environmental value (HVE) certification.
Guided by the experience of previous generations and motivated by the desire to pass on our traditions to the next, we aim to ensure Joseph’s work and the quality of the wines endure.